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It is a real pleasure to report another excellent vintage
after the excitement of 2015. We heard very
many
superlatives from both winemakers and other buyers,
journalists and consumers alike. After exhaustive
tasting,
I can faithfully say that it is a year of extremely high
quality across the region and a remarkable
vintage.
It is being hailed as better than the 2015 vintage, and in my view, this
is absolutely true although the style
is very different with the emphasis
far more on precision, finesse and elegance rather than the weight
and power
of the 2015s. This is a year that will stand shoulder to
shoulder with the other recent greats such as 2005, 2009
and 2010.
Consensus says it is a year for the Cabernets with emphasis therefore
on the Left Bank, with wines of astonishing ripe
fruit, elegance and
polished, silky tannins. However, the Right Bank also shone with a little
more weight but still with
the uplifting, crackling acidity and freshness
that marks this vintage.
The key to this balance of ripeness, freshness and fine grained tannin
came from the complex weather through the year
that eventually was
perfectly timed to create ideal harvest conditions.
The start of the year was incredibly wet, with “biblical amounts of
rain”, leading to concerns over fungal disease
at the time, but also
excellent soil water reserves which were to prove vital for the summer
months. Flowering and
fruit set were relatively quick in a warm dry
spell in early June which set the scene for even ripening. Then followed
a prolonged period of hot, dry weather through July and August
which created the gradual onset of vine water-stress and
triggering
veraison by the beginning of August. Wide day and night temperature
variation during August allowed for
potential anthocyanin formation
and also preserved aroma and the wonderful freshness and acidity
that is so clear in so
many wines.
There were then concerns that rain was needed to complete ripening
and that vine shut down and scorch were real dangers.
Mother Nature
smiled again and provided the wherewithal at the right time and in
the right quantities to set up for a
perfect harvest from late September
onwards.
Yields were generous, grapes were both physically and phenolically
ripe and with care and manpower in the vineyard, it
was more than
possible to produce a breathtaking vintage.
The are full bodied, rich and sweetly ripe yet have a wonderful purity
of fruit and precision of style and fine
closed-fist tannins that make
for elegance with great ageing potential. Furthermore, it is good to
see more restrained
alcohol levels than in recent years, mostly pulled
back to between 13 and 13.5%, furthering the freshness and liveliness
of style.
"2016 was another truly memorable year to follow 2015, but the style
is much more about ripe elegance, precision and
finesse than
the sheer weight and power of 2015. It was primarily a year for the
Cabernets and the Left Bank, although
there were some excellent wines coming from the Right Bank".
Xenia Irwin, Master of Wine,
WaitroseCellar